Woodbridge Park Houses and a Bicycle

I took below photos and generated their HDR image.

Mason Park In HDR

I went today to the Mason Park in Irvine. It was cloudy so the conditions were perfect, I tried to find areas that are rich in colors. My aim was to use exposure brucketing to prepare the photos for HDR processing. Below are the results

My first High Dynamic Range (HDR) photography Try

After reading some tutorials and trying different options I came up with my first basic HDR photo. In order to produce HDR image, you need to take multiple shots for the same scene with different exposure to capture the different level of lights of the scene as much as possible. usually three shots at (+2. 0, -2) stops are enough but taking more samples may produce better tones (but not sure) I took 5 shots (+2,+1,0,-1,-2) stops.

I followed below basic steps to come up with the final HDR image (although they can be extended to more advanced and detailed steps) but this is what I did in my first try:

1. You definitely need a Tripod with DSLR to take the photos as multiple shots for the scene are needed in different Exposures. Any movement can blur one of the shots and may cause problems later on in the post processing (although some software can correct that by using Alignments).
2. Set the Camera to Manual Mode. This is needed in order to fix the Aperture to get the preferred depth of field. F8 works fine but I set it to F22 to achieve greater DOF
3. Using different shutter speeds to achieve different Exposure. As you move the dial that change the shutter speed look at the exposure meter in the view finder or the LCD. Start with the correct exposure shot which means the meter should read 0 "center of the scale" then take the shot (remote control is preferred).
4. Repeat step (3) for the same aperture with different shutter speeds that results in Exposure stops of (+2, +1,-1,-2). below are the shots that I took they shows clearly the difference in exposure

5. Now the fun begins. After you transfer the pictures from the Camera you need to convert it to JPEG format (better than letting the HDR convert it automatically).
6. in order to produce HDR image you need a software, after searching the Internet and read reviews it seems the standard application for that is Photomatix Pro. Once you launch the application click on "Generate HDR Image" and drag the 5 images into the opened pop up screen then proceed (keep the default settings).
7. It will do the processing and produce the default image which looks way much better than the original without even any further tweaking. this is the first time I use the application so I tired to play withe slides and also tried the predefined presets and come up with the below HDR photos which looks nice as first time using this application. I LOVE IT. I'm using the trial version of Photomatix so the image contains watermark. for $99 definitely this software worth investing.
   
   
   
   

Griffith Observatory and LA at night

Photo taken for LA from top on Griffith Observatory

Moon Photo taken in Griffith Observatory

I took below Moon photo in Griffith Observatory, it was challenging for me as this the first time I try to take a photo for the Moon. I used the 55-200 mm lens to zoom as close as possible and put the camera on Manual mode (Definitely tripod is needed).

After a couple of experiments with different combinations of shutter speed and aperture which always showed the moon as white circle without details, I come up with the best exposure settings.

I set the shutter speed to 1/2 seconds for a reasonable enough lighting without over expose the photo and set the aperture to the lowest value F/32 to get as much details of the moon and this helped to minimize the lighting also. I have to use manual focus as the camera could not auto focus at night and there was a tree that keep getting the focus

I did some post editing, I use the basic Nikon ViewNX editor and set the sharpness to its maximum value to show the details of the moon. Also I boosted the colors little bit and below is the outcome

Device: Nikon D60, Lens:VR 55-200mm F/4-5.6G, Focal Length: 200mm, VR: OFF,Aperture: F/32, Shutter Speed:1/2s, Exposure Mode: Manual, Exposure Comp.: -1.0EV, ISO Sensitivity: ISO 100

Yellow Flower

I took below shot for a yellow follower under mid day where the sun light was harsh but there was little shade when I shot the follower ... I took it from side rather from front to look at it from different perspective and it turned out as a nice shot.

I used 55 - 200 mm Zoom Lens and set the mode to A (Aperture) and get back as far as possible to extend the lens to its maximum zoom length (200) to make it more pleasant and set the aperture to the lowest possible value to throw a way the background.

I did some post editing, I boosted the colors

Device: Nikon D60, Lens: VR 55-200mm F/4-5.6G, Focal Length: 200mm, Aperture: F/5.6, Shutter Speed: 1/250s, Exposure Mode: Aperture Priority, ISO Sensitivity: ISO 100

Balboa Island Peir at Night

I took below picures in Balboa Island Peir at Night. I was cold and windy , even the tripod couldn't hold the camera still. Below photos are the ones that I think they sounds ok.

10 minutes Shutter Speed in Coronado - San Diego

I took some pictures today at night at Coronado in San Diego. I was experimenting different shutter speeds in Manual mode till I got the best photos. I started with 30 seconds and maximum aperture to test the scene and exposure then keep slowing the shutter speed. I tried 2 minute, 3 minutes, 5 minutes then 10 minutes. At 10 minutes it was the pleasant results I even did not expect it like that.

I was surprised of the quality of the shots because this is the first time I use the Bulb mode and keep the shutter speed that long. I found out that 10 minutes with a sturdy tripod and remote control gives good shots , showing the lights and smooth out the ocean water.

below are the images that I took with the related camera information. In brief try 10 minutes and set aperture to f22 to get as much as focus of the whole scene even above shutter speed and you will never regret it

 Device: Nikon D60, Lens: VR 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6G, Focal Length: 55mm, Aperture: F/22, Shutter Speed: 315.7s, Exposure Mode: Manual, Exposure Comp.: 0EV, Metering: Matrix, ISO Sensitivity: ISO 100

 Device: Nikon D60, Lens: VR 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6G, Focal Length: 18mm, Aperture: F/22, Shutter Speed: 453.2s, Exposure Mode: Manual, Exposure Comp.: 0EV, Metering: Matrix, ISO Sensitivity: ISO 100

 

Device: Nikon D60, Lens: VR 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6G, Focal Length: 36mm, Aperture: F/22, Shutter Speed: 621s, Exposure Mode: Manual, Exposure Comp.: 0EV, Metering: Matrix, ISO Sensitivity: ISO 100

  

Device: Nikon D60, Lens: VR 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6G, Focal Length: 24mm, Aperture: F/22, Shutter Speed: 652.6s, Exposure Mode: Manual, Exposure Comp.: 0EV, Metering: Matrix, ISO Sensitivity: ISO 100

Device: Nikon D60, Lens: VR 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6G, Focal Length: 55mm, Aperture: F/22, Shutter Speed: 629.2s, Exposure Mode: Manual, Exposure Comp.: 0EV, Metering: Matrix, ISO Sensitivity: ISO 100

My First Night Photos

I went outside at night to take couple of pictures to practice on using Manual mode and low shutter speed to get well exposed night photos. Definitely I needed my tripod in order to keep the Camera still. At night , the best mode to use is Manual as I can control both the Shutter Speed and Aperture at the same time.
The goal is to get best exposure by balancing the Shutter speed with the Aperture, the more the aperture is wide opened the more light get into the sensor and hence better exposure but this may impact the depth of field and can cause spot lights to get out of focus and appear as blurred.

In regards to Shutter Speed, the slower value means the shutter stay open for longer period which allow more light to get in but when you go with slow speed this mean moving things get blurred as the camera will not able to capture the movement specially with low lighting conditions,but at night most likely I will not take photos for moving objects unless to compose some nice light effects (like moving cars on highway)

if the shutter speed is increased this mean better capturing of movement but it will decrease the amount of light which make the picture dimmed and under exposed.

I played with Shutter Speed and Aperture trying to get best exposure and effect and took below pictures. If you noticed the Fountain water is blurred , it comes out nicely also the water color looks solid. The second note is the spot lights when I was trying to figure out the best exposure I was keep looking at the light beams that come out from the spot lights, if the beams are clear then most likely the exposure is good (which means they are in focus and not over or under exposed)

my rule of thumb (as I don't know if it is a known rule of thumb) is set the shutter speed to the slowest value (30 seconds in Nikon D60) and open the lens to its maximum Aperture (lowest F stop,in my case as I'm using 18 - 55 mm lens is) then look at the picture after I take it, if it is over exposed I start increase the speed (20 seconds or 10 seconds) then I start playing with the Aperture to get the light beams clear (by increasing the depth of field, which means high f stop i.e. f4.5 or more)

below are the pictures with the various values for Shutter speed and Aperture.

Device: Nikon D60, Lens: VR 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6G, Focal Length: 18mm, Aperture: F/3.5, Shutter Speed: 30s, Exposure Mode: Manual, Exposure Comp.: +0.7EV, ISO Sensitivity: ISO 100

Device: Nikon D60, Lens: VR 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6G, Focal Length: 18mm, Aperture: F/4, Shutter Speed: 10s, Exposure Mode: Manual, Exposure Comp.: +0.7EV, ISO Sensitivity: ISO 100

Device: Nikon D60, Lens: VR 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6G, Focal Length: 18mm, Aperture: F/3.8, Shutter Speed: 20s, Exposure Mode: Manual, Exposure Comp.: +0.7EV, ISO Sensitivity: ISO 100

 

Device: Nikon D60, Lens: VR 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6G, Focal Length: 48mm, Aperture: F/5.6, Shutter Speed: 15s, Exposure Mode: Manual, Exposure Comp.: +0.7EV, ISO Sensitivity: ISO 100

 Device: Nikon D60, Lens: VR 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6G, Focal Length: 18mm, Aperture: F/6.3, Shutter Speed: 30s, Exposure Mode: Manual, Exposure Comp.: +0.7EV, ISO Sensitivity: ISO 100

Exploring Bulb Mode

If you are planning to use Bulb Mode and trying to get bulby then most likely you need a Remote Control or Shutter Release cable in order to prevent vibration when the Shutter release button is used.


Today I got the Remote Control for releasing the Camera Shutter (Nikon ML_L3). It took me a while to figure out how to make it work , it does not come with any instructions and I was too lazy to read the D60 documentation. Then I found out that I need to change the Release mode from "S" to "Quick Response Remote" in the Camera.


I went to Newport Beach at night and took below picture for a tree, it was too dark and the sky is cloudy, it has some reflection from ground lights. I setup the tripod and put the Camera in manual mode "M", set the F stop to 3.5 and Shutter speed to "Bulb" (note, that when you use remote control the Bulb text changed to Time!).


As I'm using Remote Control and Manual mode, the Camera does not auto focus so I had to press the Shutter button half way to get the image focused . Then by using the Remote Control I opened the Shutter and kept it open for around 54 seconds to get as much light as possible then closed it (using the Remote Control) and got below picture

DeviceLens: VR 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6G, Focal Length: 18mm ,Aperture: F/3.5,Shutter Speed: 54.2s,Exposure Mode: Manual, Exposure Comp.: +0.7EV, ISO Sensitivity: ISO 100